Southeast Asia: Myanmar (Burma), Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and S. Viet Nam
January 12 – February 7, 2016
Suzanne Whitacre and good friend, Carol Baarsma
Slide Show of Photos with captions at end of trip information
What began as a plan to enjoy a leisurely long cruise on the Irrawaddy River from Yangon (Rangoon) to Mandalay in Myanmar plus a post-tour of Angkor Wat turned in to a 28-day journey of five amazing countries in an OAT tour titled Ancient Kingdoms: Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, & South Viet Nam plus a 7-day pre-trip to Myanmar. (The Irrawaddy cruise was canceled due to low water during the dry season, a disappointment, but our alternative was much better!) Not only did we have day cruises on the Irrawaddy, but also on the Mekong in both Laos and S. Viet Nam.
We arrived late at night in Yangon on January 13th, so were able to have a good night’s rest and explore before meeting the other 6 members of our tour the following evening. Our two busy days in Yangon included visiting the Kalaywa Tawya Monastery where we watched the young monks observing their daily noontime ritual, their main meal of the day. These young novices, ages 6-20, examine the purity of Buddhist scripture as well as modern academic studies, often the only schooling available especially for those from the villages. I chuckled watching them after lunch, especially the younger ones, as they chased each other, playing tag, etc. as all young boys do! We,also, spent time at the girls’ monastery, a bit more subdued. Late that afternoon we visited the Shwedagon Pagoda, the Golden Pagoda, the most sacred pagoda in Burma which houses relics of the past four Buddhas with a spire encrusted with precious jewels, and watched the sunset along with the many locals.
Our second day included a tour of the modern city, including Strand Road and the historic Scott market – lots to buy including beautiful fabrics. That afternoon we ferried across the Irrawaddy to Dali, a commuter town of 45,000 traveling by triskaw along narrow dirt roads, small “houses”, and many smiling children. The highlight that evening was dinner at “Memory House” where Ang San, the revolutionary leader of Burma in the late 1940s and his buddies planned their strategy for gaining Burmese independence from England, and the father of Aung San Suu Kyi.
Up at 3:30 AM for an early plane ride to Bagan, known as the city of Four Million Pagodas, some small and some huge as over 2000 of them are scattered over a remote plain, flanked on one side by the Irrawaddy. Most were constructed between the 11th and 13th centuries when Bagan was the capital of the first Burmese empire. We climbed many of them, steep stairs!, and rode via a horse-drawn carriage through much of the area. We also had a leisurely voyage on the Irrawaddy watching the Burmese fishing, washing clothes, gathering mud, etc. and spent time at a family-run lacquer ware shop where we were taught the entire process, unique to this area. Unfortunately this area cannot be determined a UNESCO Heritage site since, by rule, antiquities cannot be restored more than a certain percentage to qualify and Burmese families are restoring pagodas in honor of their ancestors.
On to Mandalay, another early morning! Our first stop, a gold leaf workshop where the workers pound by hand gold into tiny gold leaf, packaged and sold to the Burmese (& tourists) to place on sacred Buddhas. Then on to Mahamuni Buddha, the most sacred shrine in upper Burma, covered with so much gold leaf that its body has lost all proportion. Later that day we rode to the top of Mandalay Hill in the back of a pick-up to view the amazing gold and mosaic tiled temple, a view of Mandalay looking down the long moat toward the royal palace ground, and a gorgeous panoramic sunset. Our final day in Burma included a long river cruise on the Irrawaddy to the village of Mingun, the home of one of the world’s largest ringing bells, weighing 90 tons and a beautiful white pagoda. Our guide, Aung, treated us to a local specialty, Burmese crepes with sugar and coconut. Final destination – a walk across U Bein footbridge, ¾ of a mile long, constructed of teak planks, and over two centuries old.
Myanmar has so much to offer, rich history, strong Buddhist beliefs, a friendly people, and moving toward more of a democracy after a long military rule. Aung excitedly emailed us after the recent elections, looking forward to more freedom. He had very strong political views and was willing to answer our questions. We wish him and his country well!
After a leisurely morning walk along the palace moat, we were off to Bangkok to meet the rest of our OAT group (8 more) and guide, Dara, who accompanied us for the next 17 days. Three busy days including a tour of the Grand Palace along with thousands of other tourists in 95 degree humid weather, a ride back to our hotel via ferry and subway, and a dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The following morning (early!) we were off to the ancient city of Ayutthaya, a World Heritage Site, and the capital of Siam from 1353 – 1767 where we toured Wat Yai Chai Mongkol, a temple surrounded by saffron-draped Buddha statues and the ruins of Wat Phra Sri, a huge temple complex that had been destroyed by the Burmese in the 1700s. (Lots of wars between all these kingdoms!) Later that day we boarded a motorized long-tail boat for a visit to a Muslim village and a talk with the local Imam. Our final day in Thailand took us south to a Floating Market where we were paddled through the stalls of goods and yummy foods including coconut ice cream served in a coconut shell. Mmmm –it was good! That afternoon, further south to explore a mangrove forest via dragon boat where we fed bananas to hundreds of monkeys and planted new mangrove trees – in the mud!
Bangkok – a huge bustling city, so much traffic (cars and motor cycles), high rises, and people, often called the Venice of the East. Even though many of the canals have been paved over, once one gets out of the city core, the canals are still intact. In three days, we only scratched the surface!
Off to Laos, first to Luang Prabang, the ancient capital of Laos and World Heritage Site, another early morning! We were told to bring light jackets BUT Northern Laos and other parts of South Asia had just had a cold spell – snow the day before our arrival and temps in the high 30s. Brrr – time to layer up! We traveled by tuk tuk, first to the royal temple Wat Xieng Thong, covered by beautiful glass mosaics depicting rural scenes, and then to our hotel, which had no heat or hot water since it is always sunny there. The next day, an all day cruise on the Mekong, in the rain and cold, with stops at a rice whiskey village and Pak Ou Cave, filled with thousands of Buddha icons. The following morning, up early to participate in the alms-giving ceremony to local monks followed by a visit to the local market where we were assigned to buy a particular item (I had bean sprouts) and then, by bus, up into the mountains to visit a village of Lao and Hmong residents who had been moved from further north by the government to discourage drug agriculture. This day, called a Day in the Life, is an OAT tradition. We visited the local school, met with the Hmong village shaman, and helped prepare our lunch, in a wok over a tiny fire, with the items we had purchased at the market. Luckily no rain, just cool and muddy! Our final morning included a tour of the royal palace, now a museum. When the communists took over in the mid-70s, the royal family (King, Queen, and Crown Prince) were sent to a re-education camp and never heard from again.
Next destination – Vientiane – a beautiful old and modern city with much French architecture. In the afternoon, our guide, Nong, treated us to beer and special appetizers (roasted caterpillars, frog skin, etc.) at a local pub. That evening, another OAT tradition, we in small groups joined local families for a home-hosted dinner. Our host, a man in his 60s, had just retired from being a French teacher, both at the secondary and college level. The following day – a tour of the city including climbing to the top of Patuxay Victory Gate Monument (their Arch de Triumph), Wat Sisaket, and an afternoon at COPE, a center for the rehabilitation of Laotians injured by unexploded bombs which had been dropped during the Viet Nam War as well as others who need artificial limbs, etc. In fact, our guide’s sister works with a team that travels to these areas, defusing bombs and teaching the villages what to avoid. A sobering experience!!
Of all the 5 countries, Laos was my favorite even with the cold and rain. It is truly beautiful, with such a rich heritage and charming people and not all tours include this wonderful place. We were so lucky!
Next stop – Cambodia. Upon our arrival in Phnom Penh we were treated to a visit to the Champey Academy of Arts, an organization that preserves Khmer culture, where we witnessed a dance performance by the children, and some of us even got into the act! Afterward, on to the Royal Palace – absolutely beautiful – home of the current king, Norodom Sihamoni. The following day, a sobering one, as we first visited the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and then Tuol Sleng Prison Museum where those arrested by the Khmer Rouge during the 1975-79 Pol Pot genocide were confined in tiny cells with little to eat, tortured, and forced to confess to crimes they didn’t commit, eventually sent, along with their families, to the Killing Fields. We were also honored to meet with one of the few survivors, who lost his entire family during the Khmer Rouge period. On a lighter note, that evening some of us traveled by remuks (tuk-tuks) for happy hour at Raffles Hotel and dinner at the Foreign Correspondence’s Club, located across from the river walk along the Sap River, crowded with vendors and Cambodians enjoying themselves way into the night. What a busy city! Remuks, motorcycles, cars, buses, going every which way!
Finally, off to Siem Reap and the entire Angkor complex. What I didn’t realize is that the Angkor area sprawls across an area of 96 square miles filled with temples and monuments built by the Khmer Empire between AD 800 – 1400 combining both Hindu and Buddhist beliefs. We first began our tour with a boat ride on Tonle Sap Lake, the largest in SE Asia, visiting one of the 200 floating villages followed by a water buffalo cart ride. The following two days included a visit to the Angkor National Museum, Banteay Srei built in AD 967, the “Citadel of Women” made of intricately carved pink limestone, Angkor Wat surrounded by a moat 570 feet wide, Angkor Thom, the capital city of the Khmer rulers, and Ta Prohm, a ruin left intact by the archaeologists to demonstrate how the Angkor area looked before major excavating when it was covered with dense jungle and huge tree roots.
Our grand finale was sitting on the edge of the Angkor Wat moat, enjoying rice & sugar cane alcohol and interesting snacks (dried cobra and water buffalo) as the sun was setting over such a special place.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) – Another early start! We were so lucky to be in Saigon during their Lunar New Year as all the streets and buildings were decorated in bright lights, flowers, banners, etc. After lunch in a very modern food plaza in the basement of a huge department store, we toured the city with visits to Notre Dame, the famous Post Office and Ben Than Market – last chance to shop! The next day, another sobering one, to Cu Chi Tunnels, the underground network of tunnels where the Viet Cong hid during the “American War”, as termed by the locals. Yes, Carol and I were able to crawl through! We also had an interview with one of local villagers who supported the VC – he was 14 at the time. That evening – a treat. First, a traditional water puppet show followed by a cyclo-rickshaw ride, beer and more interesting snacks, dinner, and a walk back to our hotel through the cordoned-off streets filled by the locals celebrating Lunar New Year, New Year’s eve being the next day.
Our final day – off at 7:15 AM for the Mekong Delta region. Ben Tre Village, known for its coconut palms and candy including a sampan ride along one of its peaceful canals and a visit to the coconut candy “factory”. Lunch at a beautiful restaurant on the Mekong, a larger sampan ride along the river, the area where American PT boats operated, and a relaxing ride back to Saigon observing green rice paddies often with family tombstones, banana plantations, boats filled with flowers, then modern apartment buildings, etc. A relaxing way to finish a very special tour.
Ah, the best part of that day. We visited Henry, our local guide’s, father who lives in this area. He had been a captain in the South Vietnamese army during the war, was sent to re-education camp afterward, is not eligible for any pension, but lives happily with Henry’s support. The most poignant scene was when we left, one of our travelers who had been an army captain during the Viet Nam War era, but served in Germany, exchanged salutes with Henry’s father. I had tears in my eyes!
Up at 3:30 in the morning – arriving back the same day – sort of!! We saw and learned so much (including 9 airports!) I realized how little we know about this part of the world since most of our education focuses on western civilization. SE Asia has such a rich long history, amazing architecture, such a variety of people and religions and governments, and wonderful charming people. We only just experienced a little of it!
January 12 – February 7, 2016
Suzanne Whitacre and good friend, Carol Baarsma
Slide Show of Photos with captions at end of trip information
What began as a plan to enjoy a leisurely long cruise on the Irrawaddy River from Yangon (Rangoon) to Mandalay in Myanmar plus a post-tour of Angkor Wat turned in to a 28-day journey of five amazing countries in an OAT tour titled Ancient Kingdoms: Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, & South Viet Nam plus a 7-day pre-trip to Myanmar. (The Irrawaddy cruise was canceled due to low water during the dry season, a disappointment, but our alternative was much better!) Not only did we have day cruises on the Irrawaddy, but also on the Mekong in both Laos and S. Viet Nam.
We arrived late at night in Yangon on January 13th, so were able to have a good night’s rest and explore before meeting the other 6 members of our tour the following evening. Our two busy days in Yangon included visiting the Kalaywa Tawya Monastery where we watched the young monks observing their daily noontime ritual, their main meal of the day. These young novices, ages 6-20, examine the purity of Buddhist scripture as well as modern academic studies, often the only schooling available especially for those from the villages. I chuckled watching them after lunch, especially the younger ones, as they chased each other, playing tag, etc. as all young boys do! We,also, spent time at the girls’ monastery, a bit more subdued. Late that afternoon we visited the Shwedagon Pagoda, the Golden Pagoda, the most sacred pagoda in Burma which houses relics of the past four Buddhas with a spire encrusted with precious jewels, and watched the sunset along with the many locals.
Our second day included a tour of the modern city, including Strand Road and the historic Scott market – lots to buy including beautiful fabrics. That afternoon we ferried across the Irrawaddy to Dali, a commuter town of 45,000 traveling by triskaw along narrow dirt roads, small “houses”, and many smiling children. The highlight that evening was dinner at “Memory House” where Ang San, the revolutionary leader of Burma in the late 1940s and his buddies planned their strategy for gaining Burmese independence from England, and the father of Aung San Suu Kyi.
Up at 3:30 AM for an early plane ride to Bagan, known as the city of Four Million Pagodas, some small and some huge as over 2000 of them are scattered over a remote plain, flanked on one side by the Irrawaddy. Most were constructed between the 11th and 13th centuries when Bagan was the capital of the first Burmese empire. We climbed many of them, steep stairs!, and rode via a horse-drawn carriage through much of the area. We also had a leisurely voyage on the Irrawaddy watching the Burmese fishing, washing clothes, gathering mud, etc. and spent time at a family-run lacquer ware shop where we were taught the entire process, unique to this area. Unfortunately this area cannot be determined a UNESCO Heritage site since, by rule, antiquities cannot be restored more than a certain percentage to qualify and Burmese families are restoring pagodas in honor of their ancestors.
On to Mandalay, another early morning! Our first stop, a gold leaf workshop where the workers pound by hand gold into tiny gold leaf, packaged and sold to the Burmese (& tourists) to place on sacred Buddhas. Then on to Mahamuni Buddha, the most sacred shrine in upper Burma, covered with so much gold leaf that its body has lost all proportion. Later that day we rode to the top of Mandalay Hill in the back of a pick-up to view the amazing gold and mosaic tiled temple, a view of Mandalay looking down the long moat toward the royal palace ground, and a gorgeous panoramic sunset. Our final day in Burma included a long river cruise on the Irrawaddy to the village of Mingun, the home of one of the world’s largest ringing bells, weighing 90 tons and a beautiful white pagoda. Our guide, Aung, treated us to a local specialty, Burmese crepes with sugar and coconut. Final destination – a walk across U Bein footbridge, ¾ of a mile long, constructed of teak planks, and over two centuries old.
Myanmar has so much to offer, rich history, strong Buddhist beliefs, a friendly people, and moving toward more of a democracy after a long military rule. Aung excitedly emailed us after the recent elections, looking forward to more freedom. He had very strong political views and was willing to answer our questions. We wish him and his country well!
After a leisurely morning walk along the palace moat, we were off to Bangkok to meet the rest of our OAT group (8 more) and guide, Dara, who accompanied us for the next 17 days. Three busy days including a tour of the Grand Palace along with thousands of other tourists in 95 degree humid weather, a ride back to our hotel via ferry and subway, and a dinner cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The following morning (early!) we were off to the ancient city of Ayutthaya, a World Heritage Site, and the capital of Siam from 1353 – 1767 where we toured Wat Yai Chai Mongkol, a temple surrounded by saffron-draped Buddha statues and the ruins of Wat Phra Sri, a huge temple complex that had been destroyed by the Burmese in the 1700s. (Lots of wars between all these kingdoms!) Later that day we boarded a motorized long-tail boat for a visit to a Muslim village and a talk with the local Imam. Our final day in Thailand took us south to a Floating Market where we were paddled through the stalls of goods and yummy foods including coconut ice cream served in a coconut shell. Mmmm –it was good! That afternoon, further south to explore a mangrove forest via dragon boat where we fed bananas to hundreds of monkeys and planted new mangrove trees – in the mud!
Bangkok – a huge bustling city, so much traffic (cars and motor cycles), high rises, and people, often called the Venice of the East. Even though many of the canals have been paved over, once one gets out of the city core, the canals are still intact. In three days, we only scratched the surface!
Off to Laos, first to Luang Prabang, the ancient capital of Laos and World Heritage Site, another early morning! We were told to bring light jackets BUT Northern Laos and other parts of South Asia had just had a cold spell – snow the day before our arrival and temps in the high 30s. Brrr – time to layer up! We traveled by tuk tuk, first to the royal temple Wat Xieng Thong, covered by beautiful glass mosaics depicting rural scenes, and then to our hotel, which had no heat or hot water since it is always sunny there. The next day, an all day cruise on the Mekong, in the rain and cold, with stops at a rice whiskey village and Pak Ou Cave, filled with thousands of Buddha icons. The following morning, up early to participate in the alms-giving ceremony to local monks followed by a visit to the local market where we were assigned to buy a particular item (I had bean sprouts) and then, by bus, up into the mountains to visit a village of Lao and Hmong residents who had been moved from further north by the government to discourage drug agriculture. This day, called a Day in the Life, is an OAT tradition. We visited the local school, met with the Hmong village shaman, and helped prepare our lunch, in a wok over a tiny fire, with the items we had purchased at the market. Luckily no rain, just cool and muddy! Our final morning included a tour of the royal palace, now a museum. When the communists took over in the mid-70s, the royal family (King, Queen, and Crown Prince) were sent to a re-education camp and never heard from again.
Next destination – Vientiane – a beautiful old and modern city with much French architecture. In the afternoon, our guide, Nong, treated us to beer and special appetizers (roasted caterpillars, frog skin, etc.) at a local pub. That evening, another OAT tradition, we in small groups joined local families for a home-hosted dinner. Our host, a man in his 60s, had just retired from being a French teacher, both at the secondary and college level. The following day – a tour of the city including climbing to the top of Patuxay Victory Gate Monument (their Arch de Triumph), Wat Sisaket, and an afternoon at COPE, a center for the rehabilitation of Laotians injured by unexploded bombs which had been dropped during the Viet Nam War as well as others who need artificial limbs, etc. In fact, our guide’s sister works with a team that travels to these areas, defusing bombs and teaching the villages what to avoid. A sobering experience!!
Of all the 5 countries, Laos was my favorite even with the cold and rain. It is truly beautiful, with such a rich heritage and charming people and not all tours include this wonderful place. We were so lucky!
Next stop – Cambodia. Upon our arrival in Phnom Penh we were treated to a visit to the Champey Academy of Arts, an organization that preserves Khmer culture, where we witnessed a dance performance by the children, and some of us even got into the act! Afterward, on to the Royal Palace – absolutely beautiful – home of the current king, Norodom Sihamoni. The following day, a sobering one, as we first visited the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and then Tuol Sleng Prison Museum where those arrested by the Khmer Rouge during the 1975-79 Pol Pot genocide were confined in tiny cells with little to eat, tortured, and forced to confess to crimes they didn’t commit, eventually sent, along with their families, to the Killing Fields. We were also honored to meet with one of the few survivors, who lost his entire family during the Khmer Rouge period. On a lighter note, that evening some of us traveled by remuks (tuk-tuks) for happy hour at Raffles Hotel and dinner at the Foreign Correspondence’s Club, located across from the river walk along the Sap River, crowded with vendors and Cambodians enjoying themselves way into the night. What a busy city! Remuks, motorcycles, cars, buses, going every which way!
Finally, off to Siem Reap and the entire Angkor complex. What I didn’t realize is that the Angkor area sprawls across an area of 96 square miles filled with temples and monuments built by the Khmer Empire between AD 800 – 1400 combining both Hindu and Buddhist beliefs. We first began our tour with a boat ride on Tonle Sap Lake, the largest in SE Asia, visiting one of the 200 floating villages followed by a water buffalo cart ride. The following two days included a visit to the Angkor National Museum, Banteay Srei built in AD 967, the “Citadel of Women” made of intricately carved pink limestone, Angkor Wat surrounded by a moat 570 feet wide, Angkor Thom, the capital city of the Khmer rulers, and Ta Prohm, a ruin left intact by the archaeologists to demonstrate how the Angkor area looked before major excavating when it was covered with dense jungle and huge tree roots.
Our grand finale was sitting on the edge of the Angkor Wat moat, enjoying rice & sugar cane alcohol and interesting snacks (dried cobra and water buffalo) as the sun was setting over such a special place.
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) – Another early start! We were so lucky to be in Saigon during their Lunar New Year as all the streets and buildings were decorated in bright lights, flowers, banners, etc. After lunch in a very modern food plaza in the basement of a huge department store, we toured the city with visits to Notre Dame, the famous Post Office and Ben Than Market – last chance to shop! The next day, another sobering one, to Cu Chi Tunnels, the underground network of tunnels where the Viet Cong hid during the “American War”, as termed by the locals. Yes, Carol and I were able to crawl through! We also had an interview with one of local villagers who supported the VC – he was 14 at the time. That evening – a treat. First, a traditional water puppet show followed by a cyclo-rickshaw ride, beer and more interesting snacks, dinner, and a walk back to our hotel through the cordoned-off streets filled by the locals celebrating Lunar New Year, New Year’s eve being the next day.
Our final day – off at 7:15 AM for the Mekong Delta region. Ben Tre Village, known for its coconut palms and candy including a sampan ride along one of its peaceful canals and a visit to the coconut candy “factory”. Lunch at a beautiful restaurant on the Mekong, a larger sampan ride along the river, the area where American PT boats operated, and a relaxing ride back to Saigon observing green rice paddies often with family tombstones, banana plantations, boats filled with flowers, then modern apartment buildings, etc. A relaxing way to finish a very special tour.
Ah, the best part of that day. We visited Henry, our local guide’s, father who lives in this area. He had been a captain in the South Vietnamese army during the war, was sent to re-education camp afterward, is not eligible for any pension, but lives happily with Henry’s support. The most poignant scene was when we left, one of our travelers who had been an army captain during the Viet Nam War era, but served in Germany, exchanged salutes with Henry’s father. I had tears in my eyes!
Up at 3:30 in the morning – arriving back the same day – sort of!! We saw and learned so much (including 9 airports!) I realized how little we know about this part of the world since most of our education focuses on western civilization. SE Asia has such a rich long history, amazing architecture, such a variety of people and religions and governments, and wonderful charming people. We only just experienced a little of it!